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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my do it yourself guide for the hardwire installation of a radar detector. I installed my Escort Passport 9500ix with the Direct Wire SmartCord. I also used a BlendMount to mount the RD to the rear view mirror.
https://www.escortradar.com/passport9500ix/index.php
https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-SmartCord-red.html
https://www.escortradar.com/escort-blendmounts/

1) Setting up the BlendMount (or however you're going to mount your RD). I did this first so it was ready when I was done wiring everything. You want to mount it level, pointing straight forward/backward, and high just under the rear view mirror. The BlendMount comes with very detailed instructions; or just stick the included suction cup mount under the mirror.
IMG_5047-1.jpg

2) Powering your RD - there are several ways to get power to your RD. From what I've seen the three popular methods are: use an add-a-fuse and wire to the fuse box under the glove box, tap into the power from the white wire with the brown stripe in the passenger side a-pillar, or tap into the moonroof power. You could also tap into the power from an auto-dimming rear view mirror if you have replaced yours.

I chose the first method of using an add-a-fuse and powering through the fuse box. If I wasn't installing a remote mute button I probably would have gotten power from the moonroof as it would have been just one short wire.

a) The first step was to remove the fuse box cover which is under the glove box (near the front passenger's feet). Simply squeeze and pull the two black fittings to remove the cover.
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Here is what the fuse box looks like:
IMG_5024-1.jpg
Here is the add-a-fuse that I bought at my local auto parts store (be sure to get the mini fuse style):
IMG_5029-1.jpg
The first photo below shows the end of the Direct Wire next to the add-a-fuse. The second photo shows how I cut the positive end above the large white plastic fuse and stripped the wire. The large white plastic piece would be difficult to thread through the car and I didn't need the fuse anyway since I was wiring to the add-a-fuse.
IMG_5031-1.jpg IMG_5104-1.jpg

b) The next step was to route the Direct Wire module wires to the fuse box. I chose next to the ESC off button for the remote mute module location. Wherever you choose you just need to be able to get the wires to the fuse box.

Remove the passenger side center console trim piece. The cover piece in my hand can be removed with a screwdriver at the right side of the cover. Then pull the black plastic screw out (it is a press fit, shown removed in the photo). Start at the right (front) and work your way back pulling the trim off. The second photo shows what it looks like behind the piece of trim.
IMG_5060-1.jpg IMG_5063-1.jpg

Next I pushed the wires through the necessary piece of trim so the remote mute module would be located where I wanted it to be. I pushed and pulled at the two red arrows and pushed both wires through (positive/ground wire and the detector power wire). The largest piece you will have to get through is the plastic connector that plugs into the RD. The second photo shows the wires pulled through to their approximate final length.
IMG_5100b.jpg IMG_5102-1.jpg

Next I pulled the 7.5A fuse out of fuse 85 (shown in fuse box photo above) with needle nose pliers. It came out relatively easily but don't squeeze it super hard. This slot will allow your RD to power on and shut off with the engine (it will also turn on/off with accessory power). As shown in the photo below, I put the 7.5A fuse into the primary slot and a 3A fuse (came with the add-a-fuse kit) into the secondary slot for the RD. From what I've read online, 2A-3A is okay for the RD while a high amperage fuse like 10A is not recommended.
IMG_5103-1.jpg

Then I inserted the stripped positive wire into the add-a-fuse end and crimped the end with pliers. I had some trouble getting it to crimp down tight enough since the power wire was so thin (I used a little super glue and tape around the wire entrance after I had crimped it as tight as I could).

Next I plugged in the assembled add-a-fuse into the fuse box in slot 85 as shown in the first photo below. Then I connected the ground wire to the screw shown in the second photo below. You can connect this anywhere you want as long as it will be grounded.
IMG_5107-1.jpg IMG_5106-1.jpg

At this point I would highly recommend verifying that the wiring is correct by connecting the RD power cord and turning the car on. Mine actually worked first try which was astonishing!
IMG_5109-1.jpg

I then zip-tied the power cords to various points that would be behind the trim when re-assembled.

c) Now that the positive/ground wires are attached correctly, you need to route the RD power cord to the unit itself. I chose to route mine through the back of the glove box, up the passenger a-pillar and across the headliner to drop down at the rear view mirror.

The first step for this was to remove the passenger side a-pillar trim. It popped off pretty easily, starting at the top. The first photo below shows the trim piece. The detail circled in red required a flathead screwdriver to pop it out from the frame. The second photo shows the a-pillar with the trim removed.
IMG_5189b.jpg IMG_5190-1.jpg

The next step was to get the RD power cord from under the glove box to the a-pillar. To accomplish this I held the power cord in my left hand and reached up towards the glove box while I reached down with my right hand through the opening in the back right of the glove box - see photo below.
IMG_5205-1.jpg

The next step is a little janky but bear with me... It seemed very hard to thread the RD power cord up through the next section. So I tied a small socket (to use as a weight) to some dental floss (fishing line would be better). I pushed the socket through the opening where the a-pillar wires go down into the glove box and jerked the floss around until I could reach through the glove box opening and grab the socket. I tied the floss/socket to the RD power cord and then pulled it up through to the a-pillar. See photo below.
IMG_5208-1.jpg

Then I routed the RD power cord up the a-pillar (securing with zip ties) and tucked it in along the headliner. Lastly I plugged the power cord into the RD that I had put on the BlendMount. I found the power cord to be barely long enough the way I routed so if you do it this way keep that in mind.

Then you just need to put all the trim pieces back together and you're all set.

Some final photos:
IMG_5228-1.jpg IMG_5229-1.jpg
I didn't have time yet but I'm just going to secure the remote mute module on the right with the provided velcro strips.

One thing I would highly recommend NOT doing is removing the driver's side center console trim piece. I removed this since I wasn't positive how I wanted to route things and it was a huge pain to take off and put back on. It is much more open on the driver's side than the passenger's side though. I have photos if anyone wants them.

I know this was very long but hopefully it can help someone who had no idea what they were doing like me.
Feel free to ask any questions you might have and I'll answer them if I can.

Cheers,
Raiden
 

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I was literally just typing up one of these write-ups myself; I installed my 9500ix last Friday. :) I like where you put the mute button, right now I just have mine mounted inside the glove box; might move it similar to yours. One comment, fuse 85 only turns on with ignition switch, it doesn't turn on in accessory mode. For those looking for another fuse, 85 is the ONLY one in that panel that is tied to ignition; I wasted a lot of time with a mult-imeter figuring that out :) Thanks for the good write-up Raiden30.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was literally just typing up one of these write-ups myself; I installed my 9500ix last Friday. :) I like where you put the mute button, right now I just have mine mounted inside the glove box; might move it similar to yours. One comment, fuse 85 only turns on with ignition switch, it doesn't turn on in accessory mode. For those looking for another fuse, 85 is the ONLY one in that panel that is tied to ignition; I wasted a lot of time with a mult-imeter figuring that out :) Thanks for the good write-up Raiden30.
I like where the mute button is too. It's easy to hit it since it's a small motion from the shifter or from the steering wheel. The flashing red alert light is easy to see out of your peripheral but is low enough down that if you have the RD on dark mode nobody should be able to see it.

My RD turns on when you hit the power button without your foot on the clutch, which I would consider accessory mode. I considered using a multimeter but just used fuse 85 after reading on this forum. Works perfectly.
 

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I tapped into the brown wire with a red stripe (I think) at the base of the A-pillar. I grounded it to a bolt on the IP mount.
 

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Raiden,

Just used your guide to install my Beltronics and am very happy with how it went! I had a hell of a time routing the wires from the center console to the fuse box, but the rest was pretty easy. I used the small socket technique on some fishing line which worked really well.

Thanks for writing this up!!
 

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Has anyone tried just tucking the wire inside of the A-pillar plastic and routing it that way? I've not had good luck with removing this bit of trim on other cars and getting it to fit back into place correctly.
Tucking works, but in the Focus removal is easy and it fits back like nothing ever was off.
 

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Has anyone tried just tucking the wire inside of the A-pillar plastic and routing it that way? I've not had good luck with removing this bit of trim on other cars and getting it to fit back into place correctly.
Tucking works, but in the Focus removal is easy and it fits back like nothing ever was off.
Make sure that what ever you do the wires are clear from the path of the side curtain airbag pictured behind the a-pillar.

 

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So I tried to tackle this project last night and got about 95% done before I ran into a problem. I ended up tucking the line along the headliner and just as I got to the plastic, I had it run over to the door seal. I was able to tuck the wire inside of that the whole way down to the kick panel and then ran over to the fuse box. Now for the problem…

I don’t think the phone cord that I purchased carries enough juice to power the RD. I used a simple radio shack phone cord on my last vehicle, but since I could tap into a power mirror, the length of cord was only about 6”. With as thin as the cable is for each color of cord, running all the way down from the mirror to the fuse box is just too long of a length for that skinny of a wire. I got onto Amazon last night and ordered a mute button equipped wiring kit. Thinking about putting the mute button and possibly the LED into the dead button location right next to the traction control. I’ve never really used the mute button before, but thought it might be worth the little extra effort if I can do it cleanly. Plus, if I ever want to uninstall it (would probably just leave it in the car if I ever got rid of it) I’m sure that blank button could be had for pretty cheap somewhere rather than a large dash piece.

I’ll update after I get the parts.
 

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God I hate how radar detectors are illegal in VA. I would love to install one like that. Currently it's just in my glove compartment and I pull it would when I leave the state.
 

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Just a quick input on this thread. I also installed my detector with the add a fuse kit but did not buy a hardwire kit. I just cut off the end with the cigarette lighter plug and added a few feet of wiring to it and it worked great.
 

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Just a quick input on this thread. I also installed my detector with the add a fuse kit but did not buy a hardwire kit. I just cut off the end with the cigarette lighter plug and added a few feet of wiring to it and it worked great.
Does that mean you put your RD on the dash?

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No i put it up by my mirror and tucked the wiring into the headliner and down inside the a pillar
 

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No i put it up by my mirror and tucked the wiring into the headliner and down inside the a pillar
Damn, that's a long wire route :p
 

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It's probably the best way to do it though.
Agree to disagree. My fuse tap works perfect and it was easier to route.

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If it's mounted low, it's your car, do what you want, but you lower effectiveness. So I assume you tapped the sunroof.
My RD is mounted on the rear view mirror with a Blend Mount bracket. I'm tapped into the fuse box, number 86 I believe.

- EDIT -

Never mind, I misread what that guy typed. I thought he connected the RD cord all the way to the cigarette lighter connection in the car.

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My RD is mounted on the rear view mirror with a Blend Mount bracket. I'm tapped into the fuse box, number 86 I believe.

- EDIT -

Never mind, I misread what that guy typed. I thought he connected the RD cord all the way to the cigarette lighter connection in the car.

Sent from my Sony Xperia Ion using Tapatalk
Ah, yea. That's why I was confused. You went the extra step with an even longer run cord.
 
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