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gonna do my first oil change this weekend. Is there any need to flush the engine the first time? Or does the car come with Full Synthetic? Im pretty sure its just a normal oil change, but just wanted to make sure.
 

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Brn, thanks for this! Once I realized just how much shops want for a synthetic oil change I think I'm going to be doing this myself.

Nice wave rotors! I'm not so good that I recognize the make though - what bike do you have? I ride on the street and do a bit or racing with WERA.
 

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just completed my first oil change (ever) using this tutorial. my st was at 2100 miles and man did the oil seem dirty. as others have noted, there was a strong gasoline smell and a slight greenish tint in the old oil. my plug and filter were on so tight that i almost gave up before getting started. i followed the op's specs and didn't tighten them back to factory. here's hoping (praying actually) it all works out.

thanks again for the write up, brn.
 

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Pep Boys didn't have the Motorcraft FL-910S filters at all, so with a little web surfing on my phone I found the Mobil1 M1-102 filter works. I prefer Motorcraft, but have had good luck and good experiences using Mobil1 filters, they are just more costly than the Ford.

Plan to change tomorrow, already at 4100 miles, would have changed sooner but I've been swamped lately.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Brn, thanks for this! Once I realized just how much shops want for a synthetic oil change I think I'm going to be doing this myself.

Nice wave rotors! I'm not so good that I recognize the make though - what bike do you have? I ride on the street and do a bit or racing with WERA.
It's just an SV650 :) Trying to sell it now actually, since I got the ST!

Just a minor correction...running the motor increases oil's viscosity, making it thicker.
You know what, you're right, and it's so obvious (the second oil number being higher than the first), I'm not sure why I've never thought to counter the traditional advice to run the engine first to warm up the oil. I'm not an oil change scientist; do you think there's any good reason to run the engine before draining the oil?

Pep Boys didn't have the Motorcraft FL-910S filters at all, so with a little web surfing on my phone I found the Mobil1 M1-102 filter works. I prefer Motorcraft, but have had good luck and good experiences using Mobil1 filters, they are just more costly than the Ford.
Walmart!
 

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You know what, you're right, and it's so obvious (the second oil number being higher than the first), I'm not sure why I've never thought to counter the traditional advice to run the engine first to warm up the oil. I'm not an oil change scientist; do you think there's any good reason to run the engine before draining the oil?
This is incredibly not right; as temp increases, viscosity of a liquid will decrease resulting in a free-er flowing liquid.
 

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I smelt a gasoline smell in my oil. Very dirty too. 2,400 miles.
 

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I changed mine at a little over 200 miles, I wanted to get any assembly junk out of my engine ASAP. I'm guessing I seated the rings in the first 100 miles, no gas smell, no metal, just some gasket material in the oil.
 

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Haha, I am very clean when working in the garage. I let the drain plug fall into the oil container instead of trying to clumsily catch it or fish it out while the oil is draining. Then I just pluck it out later with pliers.
I always do this as well. Then for the first time ever, the drain plug landed just right and plugged up the hole into my container (I use the sealed drain pan with a drain hole on the top cover). I didn't notice (walked away to grab a beer while the oil drained) . . . and returned to see a ginormous oil puddle in the middle of my garage. *sigh*
 

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This is incredibly not right; as temp increases, viscosity of a liquid will decrease resulting in a free-er flowing liquid.
Viscosity is a measure of a fluid's resistance to flow. The first number means how resistant to flow is the oil when the weather is cold (W stands for Winter) you want a lower number in a colder climate, also to give better mileage when the engine is cold. The 2nd number is how resistant the oil is to thinning at higher temperatures, i.e. Arizona. The oil in your engine does become easier to flow when warm, even though it is designed to resist this, so it will drain faster. The best reason to run the engine is to pick up any material that was deposited as the engine oil drained back into the pan after use. If your engine is warm, but has been sitting for a while, you'd still want to give it a little start, run a minute, then off.
 

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Thanks for the great how to.

Does anyone know what size the thread is on the sump plug? I'd love to get a replacement Fumoto oil drain valve for it. Makes it easier to drain and I won't have to worry about having to torque the plug every oil change, or risk potentially damaging the thread since once the valve is in there is no need to remove it


There must be a rubber or fibre gasket behind it, which will eventually need replacing. Most of the tap-style products are crappy, but this one looks very nicely made. You could take the plug into an auto shop and let them measure the threads. Or you could have them look up the replacement part and see if it lists the thread size and diameter. Now you've got me interested in that. And I just changed my oil at Christmas.
 

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don't rely on totally meaningless info like color and smell. Your senses aren't sophisticated enough to know. Get it scientifically analyzed if you really must know.

-and always wear nitrile gloves. Nothing to do with keeping your hands clean (though it will). The chemicals in oil are poisonous and some may be carcinogenic. They'll absorb through the skin. Same reason you should wear protective eyewear.
 

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Doing my second oil change tonight. Will report out on anything that is different re the oil from the first oil change at 1000 miles.
 

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Sho - what oil are you going to use now? Another dino fill, or synethetic this time?
 

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Thanks for the great how to.

Does anyone know what size the thread is on the sump plug? I'd love to get a replacement Fumoto oil drain valve for it. Makes it easier to drain and I won't have to worry about having to torque the plug every oil change, or risk potentially damaging the thread since once the valve is in there is no need to remove it


Last oil change, i tried to install the Fumoto F-107 valve and I couldn't screw it in because of an obstruction. I just ordered the extension (ADP-107), and will see if that works.
 

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thats a good article. I agree with the 3k being a little out dated. I go about 6-7k on full synthetic. Yeah, i could probably go closer to 10k changes. but better safe than sorry i guess.
 
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