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Hi All,

I've noticed recently that when the car starts up(from cold) that the oil pressure is extremely high, almost near the 70 psi limit when in gear(driving) or under load. The oil temperature is very low as well. No CEL lights or warnings either.

Now, I know that the pressure will decrease as the oil heats up to operating temperature, but the pressure just seems too high to me. It does drop to the halfway mark once at operating temperature.

Has anyone else noticed this and is this normal for the 2.0L Ecoboost? The car only has about 912 miles on it and the oil will be changed this week.
 

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I've noticed the same thing, this is my first turbo'd car though so I'm not sure if that's considered normal or not.
 

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I've answered this in another thread and yes, it's normal since the oil is thicker when cold and once it warms up, it thins out and the pressure drops.
 

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I think the stock oil is a bit thicker viscosity for the break-in period. Switch to a full synthetic at the first oil change and you'll see the pressure level out and the temps will look better after longer\harder use as well.

Some one in a previous thread noted that the oil temps were near redline after a day tracking the car. He changed the oil and tracked the car again but didn't see the temp issues.
 

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I was just about to ask this question. Glad to see others are seeing the same. I'm running that Rotella T6, which is a 5W-40 rather than 30 and was a little weary about that being the issue. It's usually only for the first 5 minutes or so. I've just been letting her run for a minute or two before I start driving.
 

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As noted, at start up, the oil is thicker. Having the oil pressure gauge right in front of you does make you anxious as it starts up and nearly pegs out. Drive easy until you come up to temperature, no worries.
 

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I've got a Mercury Marauder, and it's got a factory installed AutoMeter oil pressure gauge that never moves. Came to find out that Ford did this on purpose because they were worried about people freaking out about the gauge fluctuations. Always thought it was pretty silly, but I suppose seeing all these concerns, I see what they were trying to avoid. I'd be a bit nervous too if my gauge was spiking high all the time!
 

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I've answered this in another thread and yes, it's normal since the oil is thicker when cold and once it warms up, it thins out and the pressure drops.
Hey guys, my oil pressure maxes out at just under 70psi at 1800 rpm on startup. It takes about 5miles before the pressure starts dropping. The reason I am concerned is because the pressure seemed to jump by about 5psi at 4800miles and when I did my first oil change at 5000miles, the pressure did not drop. Also, I started a brand new ST and revved the engine to 2500rpm and the pressure was still lower at around 60psi. So if you see an ST doing 55mph on the freeway, that is me freaking out about the oil pressure.

The dealer says that it is normal, but I am sure that it is not. To confirm, could you please reply with your cold startup oil pressure at 1800rpm? Thanks for your help.
 

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There is a reason the pressure gage at 70 PSI isn't red. Because 70 PSI isn't a problem.

PV=nRT, I know, ideal gas law, but the pressure, volume, temp relationship is applicable to fluids as well.
 

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Now you know why the auto manufactures quit putting oil pressure gauges in most cars. Out side temperatures also play a big role. If it zero degrees outside the oil is going to be thicker = higher pressure, longer time it take to get to normal and the temperature might never make it to were it runs in the summer. Changing to a different brand of oil and oil filter can also make a huge difference, oil filters are not all the same.
 

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The dealer says that it is normal, but I am sure that it is not. To confirm, could you please reply with your cold startup oil pressure at 1800rpm? Thanks for your help.
I have been a hot rodder for over 40 years. 70 psi cold is pretty much what all my cars generated including the ST. There is a pressure relief valve in the oil pump that limits the pressure to a safe level.
 

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I have been a hot rodder for over 40 years. 70 psi cold is pretty much what all my cars generated including the ST. There is a pressure relief valve in the oil pump that limits the pressure to a safe level.
Does the oil pressure relief valve bypass the oil filter or does it dump the oil back to the oil pan? I am wondering if there is a block in the oil line and the engine is starving for oil. I may be damaging the engine.
 

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Does the oil pressure relief valve bypass the oil filter or does it dump the oil back to the oil pan? I am wondering if there is a block in the oil line and the engine is starving for oil. I may be damaging the engine.
Stop worrying. Your engine is fine. They durability test engines at -40 degrees C for some test cycles.

I don't understand this, everyone is worried about engine wear, this isn't the 1970's.

On a related note. If you took an actual stock 1970's car today and ran it with modern oil and put on modern rubber along with using modern gasoline the car would run 2 to 3 times BETTER than it did back then. Part of the increase in life of the product is that we actually have better fluids and compounds today in our cars. Radial tires alone can take any car (from the 20's until the 70's) and make them better than the old bias ply (and earlier) designs.
 

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Does the oil pressure relief valve bypass the oil filter or does it dump the oil back to the oil pan? I am wondering if there is a block in the oil line and the engine is starving for oil. I may be damaging the engine.
The oil pump pressure relief just bypasses the oil back to the inlet of the pump.
 

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The oil pressure and temperature gauges are displaying inferred/calculated/virtual signals. There is no oil temperature sensor and there is only a oil pressure switch (for low pressure warning). If the gauge reads high, it really doesn't mean anything. Changing the oil is not going to change the pressure because the calibration has no idea what weight oil you are running.

I am surprised how many threads I have seen about oil pressure gauge concerns.
 

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The oil pressure and temperature gauges are displaying inferred/calculated/virtual signals. There is no oil temperature sensor and there is only a oil pressure switch (for low pressure warning). If the gauge reads high, it really doesn't mean anything. Changing the oil is not going to change the pressure because the calibration has no idea what weight oil you are running.

I am surprised how many threads I have seen about oil pressure gauge concerns.
There may not be direct sensors, but the PCM does put out unique values on the CAN bus (unlike the engine temp these values are mostly accurate), this is why the center gauges can have discrete values (I've seen my Oil Pressure needle on nearly every point of the gage at one point and I just don't mean sweeping by the value).

My Corvette has similar gauges for oil temp (this is an actual value in the cluster computer), oil pressure (gage and value), and on the ZR1 they also have boost (gage only). That car doesn't have direct sensors either.

However I would argue that the virtual signals aren't as dumb as you infer that they are.
 

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There is a reason the pressure gage at 70 PSI isn't red. Because 70 PSI isn't a problem.

PV=nRT, I know, ideal gas law, but the pressure, volume, temp relationship is applicable to fluids as well.
Mine has done this since day 1 and no change after first oil change to full synthetic at 9k miles. But worse in winter so assume all normal and just due to colder temps. And this year has been much colder than last Jan when i brought mine home
 
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