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When purchasing the kit I chose the occasional autox for use and aggressive for ride comfort. You don't have the option to directly pick rates, but those options results in 550lb/in front springs and 650lb/in rear springs. They're standard Eibach springs, 6" free length, 2.5" ID. If you pick the kit and want to change your springs, it's as easy as ordering another set with your rate and free length.

Mine:

Fronts - 0600.250.0550:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ei...0550/overview/

Rears - 0600.250.0650:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ei...0650/overview/

Unboxing the kit. Very nicely packed and very nice job machining the front perches. Sleeves were already pressed on for install. Adjustment knobs are included and an allen key to secure the locking collar. Common with Konis, there are all of zero useful instructions with the kit. It's good to know the adjustment range on the dampers and that's about it. GC set these to match the springs at one turn up from full soft front and rear. IIRC the fronts are 540* of total adjustment and rears are 720*. GC did include instructions showing how to assemble the front struts with their bearings and the rear springs and adjusters.








On to the install, a few tips. If this is your first job, check out these two links:

How-To: Install Lowering Springs on a 2013 ST, presented by RallySportDirect.com

How-To: KW Variant 3 Coilovers courtesy of EdgeAutosport.com

When removing the front endlinks you don't need to use the allen in the front. It's a pain, but there's a 17mm flat on the back. MUCH easier and no special pass through socket needed.



To get the strut out, you do need to spread the knuckle. This is the first car I've worked on where there isn't a retaining tab that goes around the shock bolt so all that holds the shock in is the clamping force. Using the bolt through the opposite way and some scrap steel, you can spread the knuckle. It only takes a couple turns on the bolt to let it open enough. A few good kicks and it will pop out. No need to remove the caliper and hang it or the ball joint. You do need to spread it though, no question.







Here is how the fronts look when assembled. You re-use the top hat, but not the stock bearing, dust boot, or bump stop. Make sure to remove the dust boot from the top hat BEFORE pulling it apart...or you'll blow apart the strut bearing. You don't need them, but they make a mess. If you can find all the ball bearings, it pops right back together.



Fronts installed:



Make sure this tab lines up with the slot in the back of the knuckle:



On to the rears. Really simple, and Ford did a nice job learning from their screwups on the LCA bolt on the Mk1 cars. It faces the other way on the ST and does not use a captive nut. Two winters on this car, daily driven, and 16k miles and it popped free with a 1/2" ratchet. For anyone in the rust belt and Mk1 Focus suspension experience, you'll know what I mean.



You don't need to remove the rear sway endlink like I did. Force of habit from the non-ST where the endlink mounts to the LCA.

You'll need to drill the rear shock mount to fit the 12mm threaded shaft, stock is 10mm. Get it CLOSE and CENTERED. Too large and the shock will go through the mount and you'll need to use a washer. Off-center, and the nut won't make it through the chassis. Since I don't have metric drill bits, I used a 15/32 (0.469") bit which gave just enough clearance.



Assembled:



Install the rears and make sure the nut is CENTERED in the chassis. If not, it will squeak very loudly when driving. This is bad:

View attachment 52326

Rears in, note the adjusters go on top and are secured with one of the 6 subframe mounting bolts. Torque is 115Nm. Note this also means you never need to lower the LCA to adjust the rears like some other kits out there. When you lower the rears, make sure to guide the springs into the perches.



I set the height initially at the highest in the front, and the rears I spun down the adjusters just to meet the spring. Maybe 1-2 threads from max height. This ended up giving the car damn near OEM height. I believe these are the only coilovers on the market that allow you to run stock height out of the box.








Here's where I ended up which allowed at least 2" of shock travel in the front. For a daily, I didn't want to go lower and sacrifice more travel. Fender heights are 25 1/2" in the front and 25 7/8" in the rear. This would equate to 1 1/4" lower up front and 13/16" in the rear per the thread below. Fronts easily have another 1.5" to 2" to go lower and rears at least 2-3" if that's what you're looking for.

Can someone do me a favor?

Fronts:





Rear:



Whole car:




Overall, I'm very impressed. The ride is fantastic and after 16k on the stock parts, rides better IMO. It's obviously firmer due to the spring rates, but less bouncy and far more controlled. I was nervous 550lb would be too much spring in the front, but it seems well balanced and the Konis handle it nicely. Probably a bit too firm for some that drive rough roads daily, but I have no complaints. Also, notice the design of the locking collars. Instead of using set screws, the screw tightens the collar to prevent it from turning. Much better design, and GC even already anti-seized the adjustment screw.

If you're looking for a KW V1 equivalent at more attractive price point, this is your kit. You can run any 2.5" ID coil spring with these as long as the rates are fine for the Konis which gives you even more customization. If you're also looking for a set that can let you run OEM height or down 3"+ all around, this is your kit. I really can't think of a better set for the money if you're looking for height and rebound-adjustable coilovers.
 

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Wow Joe, looks good.. I Know you were searching for a long time for the right setup. You dropped right around the same as me.

Good work man
 
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