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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a diagram (or a link to one) for the recommended jacking points on the Fiesta when using a floor jack and jack stands?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Look on your side skirts. There's a removable plastic insert behind the front and in front of the rear wheel. Remove those and they will reveal your frame rails.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not referring to the points for the factory scissor jack, although that's what I did use the other night when installing the snow tires. But you can't exactly position a jack stand in the same spot that's occupied by the floor jack. I'm looking for the other safe lift points, where I can pick the car up, and then position the jack stands so I can safely get under the car.

How do these come off? I felt like they were going to break, just trying to pull them off.
No, they pop off fairly easily, although one of the "retaining cords" did break off. Just grab them from the back side and pop them out and up.
 

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Oooooooh. Makes sense. For that, I have no answer. I was just under the car too the other day when I was getting my oil changed. Wish I would have remembered the thread so I could have looked. You will have to contact Ford for that question unless someone else has figured it out. Worst case, you know anyone with a medium sized fork lift? That would probably be the easiest thing to do haha.
 

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This always seems to be a grey area on a lot of vehicles. The owner's manual shows the jacking point for using the scissor jack on the frame rail to change a tire and factory service/shop manuals may or may not have floor jack and jack stand points (instead showing floor lift points). I can't offer any guidance on the Fiesta ST as I haven't wrenched on one and don't have the shop manual, but if you can't find anything on the other Fiesta sites my general rule of thumb is use the pinch weld if absolutely necessary but with a block a wood or one of the rail adapters to keep it from getting bent or crushed. If the unibody has a reinforced panel in toe pan area behind the front wheels like many cars do or if there is a reinforced frame rail/channel I'll usually use those to jack the front of the car. The jack stands usually also go under a frame rail, under the suspension member/K-frame like I do on the Focus and some other cars, or if necessary the outer pinch weld.

The rear end of many FWD cars can be tricky, especially with independent rear suspension and links like on the Focus. The Fiesta has a torsion/twist beam axle and a few of my older cars can be jacked from the center of the beam but the few newer cars that still use them are usually a lot thinner/weaker and it's often not allowed. If that's the case I use the floor jack on the pinch welds just in front of the rear wheels and again use a block of wood or pinch weld adapter. Sometimes there's a solid mounting point for something like a rear sub-frame cradle or suspension mounting point on the unibody that works for a jack stand but often on my FWD cars I'll have to put it on the pinch weld and/or reinforced frame rail.

If you do have to use the pinch welds for the jack stands I'd never use anything on the top of the jack stand, but using a block of hardwood on the saddle (lifting area) of a floor jack and going against the grain of the wood usually keeps it from splitting and allows the wood to deform a little instead of bending the pinch weld under the out rocker panel area if the jack's saddle doesn't have a rubber or plastic pad. If you have them available, using two floor jacks, ones on each side to slowly raise and lower the car can help keep things from getting bent/dented/crushed and also make it easier to raise and lower the car square and straight off the jack stands.

Only other thing I can add is to let the vehicle weight rest on the jack stands but keep the floor jack under the car and if you take a wheel off put it under there as well if it's not in your way. You can never be too careful when working under a car and I'd rather something on the car gets bent up than me getting crushed.
 

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Here are some pics from when I lift my ST. Hope they help...
 

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I swapped to my winter wheels and tires today, and while I managed to complete the task it was not as easy as I had hoped. I find it difficult to figure out the lifting and jack stand points from all of the pictures that have been posted, so I decided to try to just lift using the pinch weld points specified in the manual. The problem, as has been stated previously, is that you can't fit a floor jack and a jack stand under the same corner of the car.

I tried lifting one entire side of the vehicle (from the rear pinch weld point) off the ground to place a jackstand under the front pinch weld point, but the pinch weld bent pretty badly and some paint was scraped off. I lost my nerve before I could get it high enough to fit the jackstand underneath the car.

Ultimately I gave up on the jackstands and I just used my floorjack to support one corner of the vehicle at a time while I swapped wheels. I know this is a no-no and I was extremely worried that the jack would slip and the car would come crashing to the garage floor without a wheel. Fortunately I managed to complete the task without incident.
 

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The only official points are the pinch welds, you can of course always jack a car up by using the front subframe (near the lower control arm mount points is preferred. The rear is a little harder, if you are not doing it often you can use the rear subframe (the part running between the rear wheels) as a jack point.

However for changing a single tire it is absolutely acceptable to jack up on the pinch weld and remove the tire. Just make sure the other set of wheels are choked. I use a small 2x4 to distribute load on the pinch weld to not bend it when jacking up the car (it's about 10 inches long)
 

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The only official points are the pinch welds, you can of course always jack a car up by using the front subframe (near the lower control arm mount points is preferred. The rear is a little harder, if you are not doing it often you can use the rear subframe (the part running between the rear wheels) as a jack point.

However for changing a single tire it is absolutely acceptable to jack up on the pinch weld and remove the tire. Just make sure the other set of wheels are choked. I use a small 2x4 to distribute load on the pinch weld to not bend it when jacking up the car (it's about 10 inches long)
If you jack the front up high enough the rear will lift up also.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

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If you jack the front up high enough the rear will lift up also.

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Then don't jack it up that high. If you are removing a tire you only need to get it 1/2 inch off the ground at full suspension travel. The back is still planted at that point.
 

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This is a common problem with new cars. The factory assumes that people don't work on their cars, so they only include the pinch welds as jacking points assuming everyone has a lift to use. Even then, the pads on my lift are much bigger than the little space they left me to use, So I had to machine some aluminum blocks.

One of the quirky cool things about my old MINI S was that it had giant rubber pucks inserted into the frame as jacking points. Then it was easy to find a jack stand point.

I guess you could always use drive on ramps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Eh, I never did like ramps. Used properly, I have no doubt of their safety, but driving onto them can be sketchy at best. Either way, the nose of my cars won't clear the ones I have, so I really doubt the Fiesta will.
 

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If you want to use ramps look at Race Ramps. I can get my Corvette up on those no scratching, so the Focus (and a Fiesta) are also no problem.
 

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i ended up cutting a hockey puck in half and bolting each side to a plate of steel (2 countersunk bolts per half) with about a 1/2 inch space between the halfs. This " jack pad" sits on my floor jack and the pinch weld fits between the 2 peaces and it is simple to jack up the car without the risk of damage. Total cost was $1.30 + a scrap peace of steel.
it works great!

unnamed.jpg
 

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Innovative, nice.
 
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