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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It would appear that the makers of front-wheel drive cars with engines that are making any kind of power have forgotten or chosen to ignore what it takes to get that power to the ground. Instead, they've equipped these performance cars with engine mounts that have only comfort in mind. Well what about those of us that want both comfort and performance? Look no further...we have the solution.


Available immediately, JBR is pleased to announce the release of our Rear Engine Mounts for the 2013 Ford Focus ST. It is with great enthusiasm that we bring this, the first of a long line of JBR products for the ST, to market.
JBR is the leading manufacturer of full engine mounts for the Mazda platform and we plan to take the knowledge and expertise gained there and apply that same passion for performance to the Focus. We take the quality of every part we make seriously and this is no exception.

The JBR Rear Engine Mounts for the Focus ST are constructed from 4130 alloy steel and custom high quality urethane bushings available in 3 durometers. The 70 and 80 durometer engine mounts utilize a 3" diameter bushing. This allows the mount to significantly reduce engine movement, reduce wheel hop and increase traction with the least amount of increased NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness). The 88 durometer, the stiffest of the 3 mounts, uses a 1.5" diameter bushing and was designed with the drag strip in mind but it's still comfortable enough to use every day.

So whether you're a spirited daily driver/street racer or a hardcore performance-only oriented enthusiast, we have the engine mount to suit your needs. And as always, our products come with detailed online installation instructions, a lifetime no questions asked warranty and free domestic shipping.

Visit us at jamesbaroneracing.com and Like us on Facebook to keep up with News and Events at JBR.

Installation instructions can be found here.

 

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I'm going to distribute this thread to literally every thread relating to wheel hop. Watch this win occur.

ST people! This is where you start modding and reviewing. Love the torque transfer..
 

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Hi Jamie,

Those rear motor mounts look great, and I have a feeling this will be one of the first mods I do when I get my ST3.

I know you probably haven't had much time to analyze the additional NVH, but any idea how much additional NVH to expect between the 70 durometer 3" bushing and the 88 durometer 1.5" one?

I'm thinking about going with the 88 durometer bushing, as long as the NVH isn't too unacceptable for what will basically be a daily driver that will be driven spiritedly every day. Mind you, I am coming from a SHO that has had all three mounts upgraded and reinforced as well as solid aluminum bushings for the front subframe and found the NVH increase perfectly acceptable for the performance gains.
 

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The instructions are on the site under support. Its like a 10min job five bolts and your done
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Any chance you have an installation guide? How difficult are these to install?
Installation is pretty easy. I'm doing the final edits on the installation instructions and I'll post them here later today or first thing tomorrow.
All installation guides for JBR products can be found in the support section of our website.


Cheers,
Jamie
 

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Definitely supporting JBR as much as they've supported my platform. You guys definitely need to check this out with the several threads about hard shifting from 1-2 and the turbo hitting the firewall. Trust me this kind of upgrade is required if you plan on romping your car even in daily driving. It makes a night and day difference.

Installation literally is 10 minutes.

Jack the car.
Two jackstands (recommended)
Jack motor 1/2 inch (optional)
Remove bolts on the rear motor mount.
Pull OEM mount out.
Laugh at the OEM mounts lame-ness.
Insert JBR win.
Put bolts back in.
Torque to spec (need the specs unless Jamie is going to include in the installation)
Remove jack, jackstands, and turn on the car.
Love the light vibrations.
Take her out and watch wheel hop disappear.

+5 points to torque transfer attribute. Win.

I would use the installation guide Jamie gives you guys with the mounts. The above list is a general guideline. :)
 
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Definitely supporting JBR as much as they've supported my platform. You guys definitely need to check this out with the several threads about hard shifting from 1-2 and the turbo hitting the firewall. Trust me this kind of upgrade is required if you plan on romping your car even in daily driving. It makes a night and day difference.

Installation literally is 10 minutes.

Jack the car.
Two jackstands (optional)
Jack motor 1/2 inch (optional)
Remove bolts on the rear motor mount.
Pull OEM mount out.
Laugh at the OEM mounts lame-ness.
Insert JBR win.
Put bolts back in.
Torque to spec (need the specs unless Jamie is going to include in the installation)
Remove jack, jackstands, and turn on the car.
Love the light vibrations.
Take her out and watch wheel hop disappear.

+5 points to torque transfer attribute. Win.
Jackstands are never optional. Play it safe guys, they cost so little and they can make the difference between a fun afternoon working on your car and a trip to the emergency room.
 

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Jackstands are never optional. Play it safe guys, they cost so little and they can make the difference between a fun afternoon working on your car and a trip to the emergency room.
I'm with you on this except I got flamed for my useage of jacks and jackstands in another thread. I added them because I use them to be safe. I do my work in apartment complex parking lots or garages. Sometimes the side of the road (if need be). I recommend it and that's why I added it in there.

I fixed it to add (recommended) so people don't drop a car on themselves.
 

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I'm with you on this except I got flamed for my useage of jacks and jackstands in another thread. I added them because I use them to be safe. I do my work in apartment complex parking lots or garages. Sometimes the side of the road (if need be). I recommend it and that's why I added it in there.

I fixed it to add (recommended) so people don't drop a car on themselves.
The idea about someone getting upset about using jackstands is beyond me, but those people do exist.

Back on topic - These look to be the magic bullet that everyone is looking for. I remember watching a daily driver review of the ST and at one point their was violent wheel hop and a huge bang in the video that led me to believe that maybe the camera had been hit...but it was the soft motor mounts at it again. When I get my ST I will definitely be going in for the 70s. This car is going to be my DD first and an autoX/track day second, so I want to quell the issue while still retaining the most driving comfort.
 

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It was more related to my use of a jack to release weight from the rear motor mount since its apparently a "Roll resistor mount." Lift engine 1/2 inch, unbolt mount. Seems legit right?

I'm not a physics expert or anything.. but a point of contact on any suspended object which is attached through said point will suspend X amount of weight. The engine mounts being as soft as they are.. I would suspect the motor might have slight alignment issues without being suspended at the point which the mount needs to line up so a bolt can be slid through with ease and the proper mounting position achieved.

My $.02
 
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Woud you think a dealer would give you an grief having this when it comes to warranty claims?
Keep your OEM mount. If you run into problems just take your aftermarket one out, put the OEM one in, and bring it to the factory. They'll never know.
 

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Woud you think a dealer would give you an grief having this when it comes to warranty claims?
Less grief than a hole in your firewall!!

But seriously, this is a pretty safe bet. If you have a fault and the dealer finds the mounts, the dealer still has to prove that the mounts caused the fault. With the exception of the mounting point breaking off the case I really cant think of any fault that the dealer could blame on these mounts.
 

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Will be picking up o e of these next week, just gotta figure out if I want the 70 or 80. The car is a DD with a little spirited driving here and there...any thoughts?
 

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Will be picking up o e of these next week, just gotta figure out if I want the 70 or 80. The car is a DD with a little spirited driving here and there...any thoughts?
70 would suit you better if its just a dd to lay into every once in a while. High duro is for more spirited driving than just daily and every so often beat the local VTEC because racecar.
 
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