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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys
Installed the JBR Solid Shifter Bushings yesterday and noted some differences from the installation instructions supplied and what I ran into. I installed on a ST3. I assume the car pictured is an ST2 or ST1. This write up can act as sort of a supplement for the ST3. This is not bashing JBR. The instructions are detailed, thorough and well written. I enjoy the feel of the new bushings after just a days driving with them.
I'm not recreating the wheel with tons of pics from the install. In fact taking the 2 pics below was spur of the moment "Hey, maybe I can write about this..."
I also used a lot more tools than suggested with the instructions.
I'm not a patient person and found that I could eliminate the steps of unplugging the 12 V/USB/AV cords under the center console.
Follow the instructions from JBR up until it tells you to remove the change cup. For the ST3 that is just a piece of trim left of the shifter that lifts off with little force once the trim to the right of the shifter is removed (open the glove box for ease.)
ssb2.jpg
After removing the trim I removed the 2 10mm bolts (drivers side, passenger side) facing me. I then removed the 10mm bolt on the passenger side under where the kick panel and shifter trim meet.
I then, per instructions, removed the two 10mm bolts holding the rear lower center console to the car assessable from the backseat with both seats forward.
This is where I began to notice more differences from the instructions and real life. The 12V outlet is in a different location. I found that by lifting up on the center console and pulling the assembly backwards it detaches from the dash by two clips and then allows enough clearance to access all 4 bushing bolts.
The front drivers side I accessed with a 3/4 2 inch extension and 8mm socket. The passenger side I accessed using a 8mm "midget" wrench that came with my toolset. Only thing that would fit.
The two in the back I accessed using a 6 inch 3/4 extension.
The OEM rubber bushings can be difficult to pry out with just a flathead due to clearance/leverage issues. I ended up just flicking off bits of rubber in the process. I removed them finally using a pair of curved hemostat clamps to grab the rubber and pry out. Can be found at a medical store or ask a nurse :O:.
ssb1.jpg
Sorry for the blurry photo. Towards the bottom you can see the closed end of the midget wrench around the 8mm bolt on the passenger side. Minimal clearance!
The instructions call for the smaller diameter of the new bushings to face up. I felt they were better seated facing down. Didn’t think it would make too much of a difference.
Reinstall everything in reverse order.
Don’t do what I did and forget the 3 5mm bolts holding the inside of the shifter trim down. I get to install that later :(
Go for a drive.
I've added these to the Steeda Short Shifter Bracket and Rear Sway Bar for a nice combo.
Shifting feels nice, crisp and committed now. Takes a lot of the slop out.
Next install is Steeda's RMM and FSWerks turbo inlet tube!
Thanks for reading!

P.S: For the trim removal I got a kit from Eastwood Tools. Helped a lot. I buggered up the kickpanel clips on reinstall and now have a bit of gapping. Can anyone recommend a way to get the panels back in flush? Which of the 7 tools do I use? Not experienced in a lot of car work...
 

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methylxanine, great write up. I get a little confused when instructions are in a paragraph format. So, I took your write up and placed it in a bullet format. I figured for others like me it might help.

Wes


• Follow the instructions from JBR up until it tells you to remove the change cup.
• For the ST3 that is just a piece of trim left of the shifter that lifts off with little force.
• Once the trim to the right of the shifter is removed (open the glove box for ease.)
• After removing the trim I removed the (2) 10mm bolts (drivers side, passenger side) facing me.
• I then removed the 10mm bolt on the passenger side under where the kick panel and shifter
• trim meet.
• I then, per instructions, removed the two 10mm bolts holding the rear lower center console to
• the car assessable from the backseat with both seats forward.
• This is where I began to notice more differences from the instructions and real life.
• The 12V outlet is in a different location.
• I found that by lifting up on the center console and pulling the assembly backwards it detaches
• from the dash by two clips and then allows enough clearance to access all 4 bushing bolts.
• The front drivers side I accessed with a 3/4 2 inch extension and 8mm socket.
• The passenger side I accessed using an 8mm "midget" wrench that came with my toolset.
• The two in the back I accessed using a 6 inch 3/4 extension.
• The OEM rubber bushings can be difficult to pry out with just a flathead due to
• clearance/leverage issues.
Note: I ended up just flicking off bits of rubber in the process. I removed them finally using a pair
of curved hemostat clamps to grab the rubber and pry out. Can be found at a medical store or
ask a nurse.
• Towards the bottom you can see the closed end of the midget wrench around the 8mm bolt on
• the passenger side.
Note: The instructions call for the smaller diameter of the new bushings to face up. I felt they
were better seated facing down. Didn’t think it would make too much of a difference.
• Reinstall everything in reverse order.
Note: Don’t do what I did and forget the (3) 5mm bolts holding the inside of the shifter trim
down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
methylxanine, great write up. I get a little confused when instructions are in a paragraph format. So, I took your write up and placed it in a bullet format. I figured for others like me it might help.

Wes



• Follow the instructions from JBR up until it tells you to remove the change cup.
• For the ST3 that is just a piece of trim left of the shifter that lifts off with little force.
• Once the trim to the right of the shifter is removed (open the glove box for ease.)
• After removing the trim I removed the (2) 10mm bolts (drivers side, passenger side) facing me.
• I then removed the 10mm bolt on the passenger side under where the kick panel and shifter
• trim meet.
• I then, per instructions, removed the two 10mm bolts holding the rear lower center console to
• the car assessable from the backseat with both seats forward.
• This is where I began to notice more differences from the instructions and real life.
• The 12V outlet is in a different location.
• I found that by lifting up on the center console and pulling the assembly backwards it detaches
• from the dash by two clips and then allows enough clearance to access all 4 bushing bolts.
• The front drivers side I accessed with a 3/4 2 inch extension and 8mm socket.
• The passenger side I accessed using an 8mm "midget" wrench that came with my toolset.
• The two in the back I accessed using a 6 inch 3/4 extension.
• The OEM rubber bushings can be difficult to pry out with just a flathead due to
• clearance/leverage issues.
Note: I ended up just flicking off bits of rubber in the process. I removed them finally using a pair
of curved hemostat clamps to grab the rubber and pry out. Can be found at a medical store or
ask a nurse.
• Towards the bottom you can see the closed end of the midget wrench around the 8mm bolt on
• the passenger side.
Note: The instructions call for the smaller diameter of the new bushings to face up. I felt they
were better seated facing down. Didn’t think it would make too much of a difference.
• Reinstall everything in reverse order.
Note: Don’t do what I did and forget the (3) 5mm bolts holding the inside of the shifter trim
down.
Awesome! Thanks for that!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will probably be doing this soon, so this is great info to have. Thanks!
You are quite welcome!
Other folks could prolley have knocked this out in quick time. It took me over an hour of checking and rechecking. Thought long and hard about getting into the electronics....glad it had enough clearence to prevent that. Last thing I want is non-fuctional seat heaters and a cup holder that lights up. That'd literally be the worst thing in the world. The. Worst.
 

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I am close on this mod. I need a cheap May Mod. lol Thanks for posting the ST3 instructions. :)

Chad
 

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Ok, huge thanks to methylxanine for the write up. I went out over lunch and completed the mod. I was a little skeptical that all the work was not going to be worth it. One quick lap around the neighborhood squashed that thought though. This is another mod that I would ask Ford, why did it not come this way. The only part damaged was the small trim ring around the e-brake. It cracked underneath, but can't be seen from above. I also just unplugged the entire harness on the passengers side. I beleive the instructions showed all the individual pieces being unplugged.

Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I considered buying this bushing....until I read all this. lol
it's all good and there are hardly any dramas involved. Just try to be careful when removing those kick panels. Impatience=Gapping and broken clips. The shifting has a nice crisp feel to it now. Guess the best way to describe the rubberyness of the OEM was stirring a pot of jello with the shifter and now all has stiffened up. I think Ford did a good job in limiting the ammount of transferable NVH and that'd why we see so much plastic and rubber and what has led to aftermarket manufacturer's pouncing at the chance to make the car feel more visceral simply by replacing all that fluff with solid metal or increased durometer (RMM.) Simply put: This car has potential for being a beast when all the princess has been removed.
 

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Nothing could be worse than the shifter GM put in the CTS-V. Talk about total disconnect with the car. Replacing the shifter and cheap ass knob they used made a world of difference on that car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, huge thanks to methylxanine for the write up. I went out over lunch and completed the mod. I was a little skeptical that all the work was not going to be worth it. One quick lap around the neighborhood squashed that thought though. This is another mod that I would ask Ford, why did it not come this way. The only part damaged was the small trim ring around the e-brake. It cracked underneath, but can't be seen from above. I also just unplugged the entire harness on the passengers side. I beleive the instructions showed all the individual pieces being unplugged.

Wes
Wes, you are quite welcome. Glad to hear that my write up helped and the bushings are working out for you! I thought the same thing as I was installing and every time I shift the "Why did Ford..." guess they are trying to appease a wider customer base/that all the other non-ST Focui use and of course those grocery getters are designed for old ladies with arthritis and want a heating pad on wheels that never vibrates...
 

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Will the bushings improve and fix the inconsistent shifting with the car? Half the time its smooth, other times its requiring extra pressure and it feels like theres some resistance to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Will the bushings improve and fix the inconsistent shifting with the car? Half the time its smooth, other times its requiring extra pressure and it feels like theres some resistance to it.
It will improve it slightly by taking a lot of the play out of the shift gate. The shifts are smooth more often now as it seems to "find its path" a little easier now and it also could be the feedback the shifter gives to the user. I still fight the tranny when itscold but at temp shifts are crisp quick and accurate. Note I also carry the steeda bracket shortening things up a bit. I'm considering a heavier knob to further speed things up!
 

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One more tip I figured out this afternoon - with the ST3, it's not just a 12V connector to remove up front, it's a 12V connector + 2 heated seat connectors. These are much easier to remove if you also remove the bezel containing these controls. This assembly is "stair" shaped, with the bezel, "front wall" of the cupholder, and bottom of the cup holder in one piece.

To remove, take out the rubber mat at the bottom of your cupholders, and use your trim removal tools (absolutely essential) to pry around the sides and "front" of the switch/12V bezel. Don't pry on the back edge.

IMG_20130630_132838.jpg

Once the front is loose, you can work out the tabs on the buttom of the cup holder, and remove it, after disconnecting those switches. Note the 6 green/yellow tabs in the picture below:

IMG_20130630_141027.jpg

This is also handy if, for example, you were to drop your 10mm socket and 3/8 to 1/4 adapter down inside the console. I mean, I'm not saying I did this? But if you were to foolishly do so, then this is how you can try to get it back. Especially when you're doing this install and trying not to remove the console (once bitten, twice shy after console removal in the SVT).
 
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