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That and while I'm pretty certain the oil temp gauge is a real reading I'm not so sure the oil pressure gauge isn't just a calculated reading from coolant and oil temp and the rpms. I'm going to investigate a little more but if that's the case it wouldn't mean much anyways if you're changing parts or how the lubrication system works.
 

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Just looked at my stash of filters. I have a bunch of Purolators L20195 that are longer than the current FL400S. They used to be the same length but Purolator and Bosch are still selling the longer version.

I have one of these on my ST so the shorter FL400S may not allow the full six Qts. As I stated before with the L20195 filter six qts was just over the hash mark. You still may be OK with the FL400S but I would check and not blindly dump in 6.

Sorry about that.
Here is a pic comparing all 3 :) Got the L20195 on Amazon for $5/ea.

IMG-20130501-00909.jpg
 

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I have been using the FL400S filter for over 10 years and it used to be the same length as the Purolator.

Purolator, Bosch and Fram are still making the FL400S equivalent in the longer length.
 

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Unfortunately cartridge length doesn't really say very much about the filter element itself. Although greater element area will typically yield more particle holding capacity and will have a lower pressure drop through the filter due to a larger surface area and lower oil velocity, if the filtering element of the larger filter happens to be of a larger mesh or a less effective element material, it's just not going to be as effective at filtering. If the filtering media is of a larger micron rating it will pass more smaller particles, which is especially dangerous to vehicles with a turbocharger as even a small particle entering the turbine bearing will quickly cause bearing damage due to the extremely high speeds and heat.

It is unfortunate there are not more specs released on engine oil filters with regards to beta ratio/efficiency of different filter models for a range of particle sizes, as well as pressure drop charts for different flow rates through the filter. The goal should be to get the smallest micron filter element with the largest media area for the highest dirt holding capacity to allow the pressure drop through the filter to stay below the bypass valve setting throughout the life of the filter.

When I select hydraulic filtration products for my assemblies all these specs are readily available, never understood why is it so hard to find them for engine oil filtration?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well with Purolator being a top filter company and actually is the company that produces many OEM filters for manufacturers I will say they use high quality filter material in their filters.
 

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I guess filter performance is all relative to the industry, as almost all automotive filters are just a nominally rated cellulose (paper) low cost elements anyway. This is fine for larger particles, but it will let a lot of the smaller particles just pass through. A $5-10 retail filter is built with low cost in mind, not performance. A filter with absolute rated synthetic or synthetic/cellulose blend media would help catch some of those particles that a nominally rated all paper element would simply pass through.

Then again, Motorcraft always seems to have good filter construction and good media area. Would be nice to see more media ratings is all, since that is really the whole point of actually putting oil through the filter.
 

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SAE standards that all automotive oil filters have to meet require that particles larger than 25 microns be captured. Anything smaller than that is much much smaller than the oil film thickness and will pass through the bearings harmlessly.

There has been a number of articles that I have seen that would suggest any automotive filter that filters to less than 25 microns also restricts flow, especially at startup which results in the filter being in a by-pass mode for more time. K&N synthetic filters are one of the filters that have been mention as restricting flow.

If you really feel the need to filter to a lower micron level I would suggest that a two stage filtering system be used. In these systems all the oil is routed through a standard filter and then a portion is routed through a second filter with a lower filtering level like 5 microns. This type of system prevents the restriction while still filtering to a lower micron level.
 

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Almost all filters will do a good job filtering out most particles down to about 20 Micron and some particles all the way down to around 5 micron, it's just a question of how well they do so and at what pressure drop. I like the idea of a larger filter to reduce the chance of the filter entering bypass under higher flow rates, but it is also a good idea to look at filter media and filter surface area in addition to the size of the canister.

I have a FL-910S already I will use for this upcoming change but I might try a larger filter next time, possibly the Purolator PL20195.
 

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I'd have a back up, shorter filter, just in case the Purolater is too long for the bottom shield.
 

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The Purolator fits fine I have one on my ST right now and have been using them and FL400Ss on my wife's 12 Focus since we got it in 2011.
 

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I have the Purolator filter on mine too. Fits fine and adds basically double the amount of oil that the OE filter does. So if it's 1/2 quart to the OE then you'll dump an entire qt in the Purolator. I always prefill the filter.

The Purolator fits fine I have one on my ST right now and have been using them and FL400Ss on my wife's 12 Focus since we got it in 2011.
 

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If you don't want to pre-fill the filter for fear of making a mess, I verified on my last (first) oil change recently that like most modern cars if you hold the throttle at wide-open while cranking the computer doesn't fire the injectors (i.e. mode used to clear an engine flooded with fuel) and you can crank a few times to fill the filter and build up oil pressure prior to the first start.
 
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I'm going to start doing that, I've never liked those first few seconds of running after an oil change before the oil is pumped up. Going to do an oil change Saturday, so I'm glad I saw this today :thumb:
 

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It doesn't crank too long on each push of the start button, likely due to a small starter to save weight and not wanting to overheat it, but if you do it a couple times it should be more than enough to prime the pump and refill the filter. I would caution about trying to repeat it too many times until the oil pressure gauge shows movement as mine didn't seem to budge after three or four times with a brief starter cool-off period and that likely isn’t needed.
 

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It doesn't crank too long on each push of the start button, likely due to a small starter to save weight and not wanting to overheat it, but if you do it a couple times it should be more than enough to prime the pump and refill the filter. I would caution about trying to repeat it too many times until the oil pressure gauge shows movement as mine didn't seem to budge after three or four times with a brief starter cool-off period and that likely isn’t needed.
I'll keep that in mind. I would imagine at least getting it pumping is better than just starting it with nothing at all.
 

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On some cars with horizontally mounted oil filers the anti-drain-back valve (sometimes in the filter, sometimes on the block or oil filter adapter) may slowly leak down over time and you end up with a nearly empty filter if the car is parked for a long time. Similar to after an oil change, it probably isn't too terrible but I personally like to let an engine crank over a little if I haven't started it for an extended length of time. With the newer gerotor and improved vane-type oil pumps they usually push enough oil volume quickly enough that even cold starts should be too big of an issue. In the end it shouldn't hurt and may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Today I was able to confirm that the FL1A filter does not fit, the filter is just too large width wise to fit in the location.
 

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From looking at the oil filter location on the St a longer filter like the Purolator or Bosch will fit with no problems with touching or getting near the bottom shield at all..
A wider diameter filter would start having clearance issues IMO.
The ST engine filter sits in a bolted-on "D" shaped part, with not much extra room on it for a wider diameter filter.
 
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