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I currently own a 2012 Titanium and I thought this would be a good starting point as there may be many similarities as far as the process.

Tools you will need:

15 mm wrench for oil plug
Oil Filter wrench
T30 Torx wrench

Before you can change the oil you must remove the splash shield / sound deadening shield.



It's appears to be a plastic like material with cloth glued to it. It's very sturdy and looks like it will stand the test of time and exposure to road grime.

There are 8 T30 Torx screws that retain this piece. Up on ramps, its pretty close quarters under there and the back most screws are difficult to reach. I've done it twice now and just finding the back ones by feel works well.

The rest is the usual. Remove the oil plug and the filter, drain, replace the plug and filter and fill with new oil.

I've found it best to put the Torx screws in loosely until you have the cover positioned so that all the screws are lined up. Then, snug them up.
 

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Any opinions on the value of a Fumoto valve? I've used one on my VW for the last 150,000 miles. It was really great when I was driving 200 miles/day on my commute, and had to do oil changes every couple months. But I've heard that it may not let the oil drain as quickly and the suggestion was that it could leave junk at the bottom of your oil pan. Not sure if that's true.
 

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I have one on my Charger, me best bud has one on his Magnum, 300SRT8, and his 430HP SRT6 Crossfire and I gotta tell ya that we LOVE them!
We always heat up the engines before we change our oil and then let them drain over the span of 2 beers. We have NEVER had any problems at all with them and we HIGHLY recommend them!
 

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On the fumotousa.com site, it states this on the main page...

"In the United States, the Engine Oil Drain Valve is being installed at the factory level on some of the vehicles/equipment made by Ford..."

Not sure what Ford vehicles come with it from Ford (I suspect certain trucks), but it would be nice if it came with the ST, though that seems unlikely.

Valve needs approximately 27 lbs/ft of torque as stated here...

http://fumoto.com.au/info.htm

You may need a crowfoot adapter for your torque wrench.

Wonder if it would clear the shield/cover.
 

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Wonder if it would clear the shield/cover.

no way it could. The shield covers a huge amount of space including the entire oil pan.
 

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I did not write that correctly in my previous post. What I meant to ask was, I wonder if the shield/cover will still fit if the Fumoto valve is installed. I don't think the Fumoto valve sticks out much, but I'm not sure how tight the clearance is with the shield/cover.
 

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What oil are you guys planning to run to combat the fuel dilution you'll face from the DI system?
I can list a couple that stand up quite well. We've done all the uoa's over on msf.
 

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There was a tread about that but fuel dilution wasn't a factor. What are your recommendations?
 

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Fuel dilution wasn't touched on, or you think it isn't going to happen?
It will most certainly happen.
It's been plaguing the diesel market since the dawn of high pressure direct injection, and those motors run aerospace tight tolerances. Not automotive tolerances.
It's the nature of the beast.
When the fuel is atomized, and has that much pressure behind it, it's going to get past the piston rings. Even on a new motor.
Shell Rotella t6 full synthetic is by far the best oil to stand up to this environment so far, and is extremely affordable.
It can be has at walmart for 38 bucks a 5L jug Canadian. So much cheaper in the states.
It only comes in 5w40 and is rated for deisel as well as gasoline. We use int and preach it religiously.
The other is pennzoil platinum and ultra. Both stand up almost as well as the T6, but are more expensive. The trade off is they come in a variety of viscosities. Not rated for diesel though.
 

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Wasn't doubting that it can happen, just noting it wasn't discussed.

I've always run Castrol full synthetic. Any thoughts on how that holds up? I'm not married to it and want to run what is best for my motor.
 

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@Shomare

Did you see my post #9 entry? Based on your observations, do you think there is any clearance between the shield and the oil pan?
 

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Edge did "ok", but not nearly as good as the two I mentioned.
Syntec was pretty poor.
 

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@Shomare

Did you see my post #9 entry? Based on your observations, do you think there is any clearance between the shield and the oil pan?
Yes, I think it would clear.

Still have to pull the shield to change the oil.


On the go via Tapatalk
 

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Edge did "ok", but not nearly as good as the two I mentioned.
Syntec was pretty poor.
Good to know. What if you make more frequent oil changes? Say the old school 3K instead of every 5k. Would seem with these DI cars it wouldn't hurt.


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Yes, I think it would clear.
Thanks, that's good.

Still have to pull the shield to change the oil.
Right, understood.

Thanks for the feedback.

Now if we could just get the equivalent quick connect/disconnect for the oil filter, that would be sweet.
 

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Frequent oil changes is a must. Even with the oils I recommended.
I do mine with Rotella every 5000kms!
 
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