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Discussion Starter #1

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  • Full width design
  • Easy fitment
  • Can be fitted with the bumper in place
  • Supplied with a chassis mount kit
  • Does not block the air flow to the water cooling radiator like some other aftermarket designs This is because our cooler utilises a THINNER core than standard to aid the ambient air flow whilst increasing the internal flow capacity by 16%.
  • Supplied complete with alloy ram air ducts
  • Fits with standard hoses
  • Note ... this kit requires the removal of the oem grille shutters
And some sacrifices. $612 is a lot...

I am sure one some will do it.
 

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I still don't even understand the whole point of the grill shutters.


Explanation courtesy of Ford (found on media.ford.com)

Innovative active grille shutters
The new Focus features active grille shutters, an innovative new system, which helps optimize aerodynamics by using vents to control airflow through the grille to the cooling system and engine compartment.

If air is required to cool the engine, the vents are opened. If no airflow is needed the vents are shut, contributing to significantly reduced aerodynamic drag.

Mounted in the grille aperture ahead of the radiator, the active grille shutters feature motorized horizontal vanes that can rotate through 90 degrees to block the airflow. Automatically controlled by the car’s electronic control unit, the vanes can be rotated into 15 different positions – from fully closed to fully open – depending on the amount of cooling air required.

When fully closed, the reduction in drag means the active grille shutters can reduce CO2 emissions by 2 percent.

As an additional benefit, the system keeps the vanes closed as long as possible when starting from cold, so the engine reaches its most efficient operating temperature more quickly. This also helps reduce fuel consumption.
 

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Not to go too far off topic, but:


To sum it up, Its pretty much about fuel economy.
 

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Yeah, the last thing I want is something to block the airflow through my intercooler. I like the features of that intercooler just need to cut the price by about half or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DIY will be significantly less expensive, but for folks that want a get-it-and-go kit, they'll pay a premium for something like this. And do remember that while there re a ton of inexpensive (but still generally functional) intercoolers available, high quality well engineered ICs are still pretty pricey, and Pro Alloy is pretty high quality stuff (by reputation).
 

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I will buy when it is included in a stage x setup from someone that guarantees y amount of HP.

16% more efficient says alot about the stock cooler or the limited space,
 
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And I wonder if there's enough of benefit to offset the added weight of a larger intercooler as well. And in terms of cost-benefit comparison, I wonder how cost effective it is compared to my plan of an IC water/CO2 sprayer combo for the stock IC.
 

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DIY will be significantly less expensive, but for folks that want a get-it-and-go kit, they'll pay a premium for something like this. And do remember that while there re a ton of inexpensive (but still generally functional) intercoolers available, high quality well engineered ICs are still pretty pricey, and Pro Alloy is pretty high quality stuff (by reputation).
I was about to say just that. There is probably a per-existing unit that will do just fine and making one isnt that hard as long as you have access to great welding skills. Take into account with this that there are ways of maximizing the current intercoolers efficiency before we step out to this level.
 

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And I wonder if there's enough of benefit to offset the added weight of a larger intercooler as well. And in terms of cost-benefit comparison, I wonder how cost effective it is compared to my plan of an IC water/CO2 sprayer combo for the stock IC.
VERY good points but Intercoolers are hollow aluminum and they dont weigh much for even the large ones. The use of a water-methanol or CO2 sprayer would be well worth it in racing conditions.
 

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Should be noted that on the ST, the grill shutters aren't just used to increase aerodynamics, but also force more air over the intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
VERY good points but Intercoolers are hollow aluminum and they dont weigh much for even the large ones. The use of a water-methanol or CO2 sprayer would be well worth it in racing conditions.
Sure they're aluminum, but they can weigh quite a bit compared to the typical OEM intercoolers. For example, I know that some of the more popular "big" 3 inch thick aftermarket ICs can weigh up to 30 lbs., versus say 9-10 lbs for a stock Evo or STi intercooler (just for comparison's sake). That said, the performance gains usually more than make up for the token added weight. And re-reading my own post, the weight of a gallon or 3 of water/meth and/or the CO2 spray rig will easily equal or eclipse the weight of a big IC. The only good thing about the water/meth and CO2 sprayers is that you can easily locate the bulk of that weight more centrally in the car for better weight distribution/balance.

But I do wonder about the performance difference of a frozen stock IC (sprayed with water, frozen solid by CO2) versus a gigantinormous IC, especially over say a full track day of use.

Another thought is using a water to air IC with some sort of chiller for the water. A local gal has a neat one on her 2.0T Genesis Coupe... the intercooler itself is about the size of a really thick thermos and is plumbed with lines from the a/c system to chill the water. Neat, compact package.
 

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You must be reading my mind, Buddha!
I was thinking that very same thing about doing away with the air to air and using a water to air intercooler.
Yeah, there is a somewhat more weight BUT you have a smaller waste heat removal package AND you can actually drop BELOW ambient temps which gives a similar effect as having a LARGER intercooler.
The longer I though about it . The more I liked it..'
 

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You must be reading my mind, Buddha!
I was thinking that very same thing about doing away with the air to air and using a water to air intercooler.
Yeah, there is a somewhat more weight BUT you have a smaller waste heat removal package AND you can actually drop BELOW ambient temps which gives a similar effect as having a LARGER intercooler.
The longer I though about it . The more I liked it..'
Biggest problem with a water to air IC is they aren't very reliable for a daily driver more useful in a race application. There are 3 options for a water to air intercooler for a daily or street driven car.

1. Have a water holding tank and pump the water through the intercooler and just use this. Down side to this is you have no way to get rid of the heat that the water absorbs from the intake charge.

2. Have a water holding tank and fill it full of ice water every time you go for a drive. Biggest downside here is you have to have access to ice water and have to refill the system every time you drive and if you don't have any ice water you run into option 1.

3. Have a water holding tank and a heat exchanger to take the heat out of the water like a mini radiator for the water part of the water to air IC. Downside to this is you have no gains over an air to air IC as the water is being cooled by ambient air and there is a good possibility that you don't get all of the heat out that has been absorbed from the intake charge. So in this option you are adding unnecessary weight for no change.
 

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I offer to beg difference with this.

I have seen many many cars used as a DD with water to air IC's. I helped build a few, too. The W2A ( water to air ) system is VERY reliable. A W2A system that does NOT use a waste heat exchanger is poorly designed and for DD and street use.
I have a system on a Crossfire SRT6 that is a daily driver ( about 30K miles a year ) and the car puts out 405 HP at the wheels ( from a 3.2l V6).

For drag racing ONLY, an icewater one-shot system is actually dandy, giving the system better than 100 thermal efficiency. Yes, it is possible. Efficiency is the amount of heat removal above ambient air temps. The ambient air ( lets say 90*f ) is heated to 160*f by compression, latent systemic heat and what not, and then passes through the IC, coming out at 80*F then there is more than 100% efficiency.


Secondary Point: A2A (air to air IC) without a chiller source such as spraying its surface with a coolant will NEVER EVER EVER pull the charge air to ambient. They are only about 85-90% efficient AT BEST. Spraying the surface of the A2A IC will get you about another 5-10% -DeltaT with an alcohol-water sprayer.
Using a waste heat exchanger and a well designed charger air cooler, pumping system, you can keep the charge air temps to lower than that of a A2A system. Even more so in congested driving where forward doesn't supply enough air flow to rid the system of waste heat.
Delta T ( rate of rise of charge air temp under load) is always higher and faster with an A2A. With a W2A it is lower and slower because of the inherent thermal mass of water. Since we have talked about spraying a cooling agent onto the A2A, spraying the W2A slows the charge air DeltaT remarkably!

SO, in conclusion;
You wont get ambient charge air temps with an A2A IC unless you spray a coolant on the unit.
A W2A unit does weigh a little more overall but affords a more compact and efficient waste heat removal system and with a tank full of fresh cold water you can have more than 100% efficiency for a short while.



If anyone would like, I can provide the math to support this argument and photographs of the system(s) I built.
 
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