T-Bolt Clamps On Stock Charge Pipes

24943 Views 32 Replies 13 Participants Last post by jeffreyd03, May 31, 2013

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · Apr 1, 2013 (Edited)

Got a chance to hop under the car today and measure some of the stock couplers and fit a few of my spare t-bolt clamps. In the entire system, you have 8 worm-gear clamps which were all loose on my car.

Hot side:

Turbo Outlet (1) - 2" (Verified)
Hard mid-pipe (2) - 2" and 2.25" (Verified; smaller goes on the turbo side)
Intercooler (1) - 2.75" (Verified)

Cold side

Intercooler (1) - 2.75" (Verified)
Intermediate Pipe (2) - 2.25" and 2.5" (smaller on the charge pipe side)
Throttle Body (1) - 2.5"

I only had spares in the above sizes which I noted as verified where I fit t-bolts. I will be ordering the other sizes and replacing next weekend. Once I verify they fit, I'll update the thread here. I will NOT be replacing the hose clamps on the throttle body or intermediate pipe. If you pull these off you'll notice they have an inner liner which keeps the clamp from digging into the silicone and also spreads the load of the clamp. These are nearly as good as t-bolts and are similar to the style clamps used on other OEM turbo applications like Volvo and Saab:

AWAB LLC

I don't know why Ford didn't use these in the rest of the system since they're far superior to the normal clamps fitted in the rest of the system. Also, the working space near the TB is TIGHT. Fitting a t-bolt in there would be quite a chore and not worth it when looking at the quality of the clamp already there.

Also, if you look at any hose clamp, the clamping diameter is stamped into the band. The same also applies to t-bolt clamps.

Text Circle Diagram Parallel

In short, here's a temporary shopping list that I'll update after I've replaced all of them. I didn't feel comfortable bottoming out my 2.25" clamps on the smaller hoses by the turbo so I left the worm gears there for now. I was able to fit 2.5" clamps on the intercooler, but that was the maximum limit of their clamping. 2.75" will work there and I will be replacing those.

(2) 2" clamps - Turbo outlet hose
T Bolt Clamp

(1) 2.25" clamp - Hard mid pipe to intercooler coupler
T Bolt

(2) 2.75" clamps - Intercooler
Band Clamp

This does not replace the final 3 couplers in the system which connect the cold side pipe to the adapter right before the TB and the clamp on the TB. If you're feeling adventurous, these should do it, but I have not verified fitment and won't be replacing them on my car:

(1) 2.25" - Charge pipe to adapter pipe
T Bolt

(2) 2.5" - Adapter and TB
Hose Clamp

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Reactions: 3

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

brazwewn

· #2 · Apr 1, 2013

I've got mine on order.

Wes

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 1, 2013

brazwewn said:
I've got mine on order.

Wes

Good deal, please let me know if you find any variances from the sizes I have posted above. I had limited spares and was only able to 100% verify a few with new clamps. The rest are just taken from measurements.

cnstman

· #4 · Apr 1, 2013

Thank you very much

Corgi_Flop

· #5 · Apr 1, 2013

Mods should sticky this thread

FJTom

· #6 · Apr 1, 2013

Subscribed, thanks for doing the research!

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 2, 2013

Just ordered the remaining clamps. While I'm not replacing the two on the adapter pipe, I should have spares to verify fitment this weekend for those that would like.

From browsing the Silicone Intakes site more, it appears if someone sends them a package, they'll add it as an option on their cart for order. Once I can verify all clamps in the system, I'll send them an email so it's easier for people going forward.

Reactions: 2

gottligm06

· #8 · Apr 2, 2013

This may be a stupid question, but what is instigating these changes??

blackbird

· #9 · Apr 2, 2013

Good info and likely a wise upgrade, especially for those running calibration/tunes resulting in more boost than stock. I'd imagine cost was a key factor for using regular worm gear clamps but you'd think having to pay out on warranty work for potential boost leak issues would have mitigated the cost. I was somewhat surprised and impressed with GM on their 2.0L turbo Ecotec running as much heat shielding wrap on underhood wiring and vacuum pieces as well as constant tension T-bolt clamps on the pressurized plumbing of the intake tract. I'm sure Ford's engineering was deemed adequate manufacturing costs do play a big part.

For those trying to track down T-bolt or constant tension T-bolt clamps (which as their name implies uses a spring behind the nut to maintain a constant clamping force) my local industrial supply warehouse usually has good prices but you can also order them online from places like McMaster-Carr, Grainger (they usually require bulk quantity purchases and a business account), or Fastenal (who like Grainger also have storefronts in many areas). I've also had good luck in the past finding specialty clamps at local hose fitting and supply/manufacturers.

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XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 2, 2013

Good info, thanks Eric. For many people, especially on stock tunes, just tightening the hose clamps may be enough. All the piping and IC outlets under the car are bead rolled and ribbed. My hose clamps were very loose and I'm sure others are as well. I have no doubt a simple tightening and verification for the first couple of oil changes would be all you need. I prefer t-bolts (the ones from Silicone Intakes use a nylock, achieving the same goal of the constant tension clamps) but it's really personal preference.

Many tractor/industrial supply places have some neat stuff for us automotive people. Good clamps like you mentioned and also a wealth of AN/NPT fittings, braided and kevlar hose, etc.

gottligm06 said:
This may be a stupid question, but what is instigating these changes??

Many people have had couplers blow off charge pipes under the car. This is mainly due to QC issues where the clamps aren't tight. Worm gears are the cheapest kind of clamp you can use and offer uneven clamp load. When properly tightened at stock boost levels, they're probably fine. I prefer the piece of mind of t-bolts.

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UnfocusedST

· #11 · Apr 2, 2013

I just ordered a full set from the list above. I prefer t-bolt clamps. I used them on my last turboed focus and never had an issue.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3.

brazwewn

· #12 · Apr 3, 2013

Received confirmation that my shipment left CO.

Wes

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #13 · Apr 3, 2013

Yeah, they ship VERY fast. Let me know how the sizes work for you guys and I'll adjust the OP. I won't have a chance until this weekend at the earliest to fit the rest on my car.

brazwewn

· #14 · Apr 3, 2013

Same here, I have calipers to paint before the clamps. Style before function right!? It shows being delivered today.

Wes

nandalora

· #15 · Apr 3, 2013

Be careful not to over tighten these. You could crack the IC outlets, they are glass filled nylon.

Not sure the torque spec, but I would be careful if you're using larger than a 1/4" drive ratchet...

brazwewn

· #16 · Apr 3, 2013

nandalora said:
Be careful not to over tighten these. You could crack the IC outlets, they are glass filled nylon.

Not sure the torque spec, but I would be careful if you're using larger than a 1/4" drive ratchet...

Thanks for the tip.

Wes

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 4, 2013

Thankfully with t-bolt clamps you have much more even torquing which will make it harder to cause damage to the plastic end tanks. You'll have to be a lot more careful with a standard hose clamp.

brazwewn

· #18 · Apr 4, 2013

They arrived and look awesome.

Wes

Reactions: 1

brazwewn

· #19 · Apr 7, 2013

Started the install. I will have sizes used later, but what I ordered did not all fit. Waiting for second batch to come in. I did use a 2.25" and two 2.75" clamps. I got the inter cooler clamps on, so I can avoid taking the front air dam off again. The only one I am not sure about is the one on the turbo. It looks too tight of an area for me to get to.

Wes

XRJoe

Discussion Starter · #20 · Apr 7, 2013 (Edited)

I got mine on yesterday and used 2" for both sides of the coupler coming off the turbo.

To get the turbo clamp off, get up there with a 1/4" ratchet and a 9/32" (7mm) socket with extension towards the wheel. Take the coupler off on the hard pipe first and then you can use the leverage to twist and pull it off the turbo outlet. Put the t-bolts on as loose as possible and then put the coupler back in, turbo inlet first. I left the t-bolt facing down on the driver's side and it was easy to get at with a deep socket and long extension. A ratcheting wrench also works.

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