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Discussion Starter #1
So I haven't seen one on here yet, but what oil is everyone running when they change it? Coming from the Subi world I know there were tons of UOA's on every type of oil out there. Feel free to drop UOA's in here as well as what type you are running.

I know my local Walmart has Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend for $18 for a 5qt jug. As well as Valvoline and Mobil 1 for low $20's. WM doesn't sell the FL-910-S, but it looks like they sell the slightly larger version FL400S for $4 a piece. Anyone know if the bypass pressure is the same?

I'm at 1000 miles, and am probably gonna change my oil this weekend.

What say you?
 

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I run Mobil 1 in the recomended 5w-30 and the FL400S filter or the even longer Purolator equivalent to the FL400. Yes the bypass pressure is the same between the FL910S0 and FL400S.

FWIW, a non turbo PT Cruiser recomends the FL910S andbthe turbo b version of the same motor revomends the FL400S.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I run Mobil 1 in the recomended 5w-30 and the FL400S filter or the even longer Purolator equivalent to the FL400. Yes the bypass pressure is the same between the FL910S0 and FL400S.

FWIW, a non turbo PT Cruiser recomends the FL910S andbthe turbo b version of the same motor revomends the FL400S.
You mean Mobil one in 5w20?

Has anyone done a UOA of M1 in an ST? I know in the Subaru (and it could be motor specific) that the UOA's weren't very favorable, although I ran it for 80,000 miles and changed it at 3000 mile intervals. Then switched to Rotella T6 later as the mileage got higher.

Also I see that the ST supplement calls out both the Motorcraft Syn blend and Motorcraft Full Syn in the manual. The Syn blend is cheap and available, I wonder what the difference the UOA's would read between Full and Blend.
 

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You mean Mobil one in 5w20?

Two different engines. Remember some of us have FoST's with 2.0s, and some of us have FiST with 1.6s. The 2.0 takes 5w-30.

Btw, I run Motorcraft 5w-30 full synthetic. Excellent oil for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two different engines. Remember some of us have FoST's with 2.0s, and some of us have FiST with 1.6s. The 2.0 takes 5w-30.

Btw, I run Motorcraft 5w-30 full synthetic. Excellent oil for the price.
Yeah I didn't see a car listed on his post and thought that he had a FiST. Where do you buy your Full Syn Motorcraft?
 

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How can you go wrong with the Motorcraft filter. I buy them in bulk from and on line supplier.
 

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Yeah I didn't see a car listed on his post and thought that he had a FiST. Where do you buy your Full Syn Motorcraft?
It is hard to find, but Pepboys carries it. It is a great oil, I've used it in my F-150 for years. The thing is, the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend is so good, it overshadows the full synthetic in most areas. You can also get it from your Ford dealership, at cost.

I've read that Motorcraft Full Synthetic and ConocoPhilipp's flagship Kendall GT-1 Synthetic are near clones of each other with the exception of some tradeoffs in formulating around Kendall's titanium.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
It is hard to find, but Pepboys carries it. It is a great oil, I've used it in my F-150 for years. The thing is, the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend is so good, it overshadows the full synthetic in most areas. You can also get it from your Ford dealership, at cost.

I've read that Motorcraft Full Synthetic and ConocoPhilipp's flagship Kendall GT-1 Synthetic are near clones of each other with the exception of some tradeoffs in formulating around Kendall's titanium.
Yeah I can find the Syn blend everywhere, but the Full Syn is proving harder. My Pepboys doesnt carry it.
 

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Yeah I can find the Syn blend everywhere, but the Full Syn is proving harder. My Pepboys doesnt carry it.
Yea, that is not uncommon. You may have to go to your local dealership service department if you really want it. Don't be afraid of the synthetic blend either, it is fantastic oil as well.
 

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I'm using Kendall Synthetic blend, OEM filters. I've changed the oil three times and I have 1,200 miles. :confused: (If you don't know why, don't be shy just ask). Once I get around 5,000 to 6,000 miles I'll probably switch to Pennzoil Ultra synthetic 5w-20. I'll still use the OEM filter. EDIT: I've also sent out three separate oil samples for analysis, just haven't received the results yet (although after looking at thousands of these over the years, I know what to expect).
 

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How can you go wrong with the Motorcraft filter. I buy them in bulk from and on line supplier.
Yep. I run an OEM filter, but unlike most I avoid Mobil 1 and use Castrol Syntec (the fully synthetic version)

EDIT: Looks like they changed Syntec back to EDGE. I used to buy EDGE Titanium until they stopped making it, looks like I'll be switching back to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Rotella T6 would probably work fine in the FoST. I'd be hesitant to run it in the FiST because of the oil weight difference. T6 only comes in 5w40. And its non API, so you will get worse MPG. But the 40W when hot means your oil is thicker at operating temperature and may have issues getting where it needs to go and lubricating properly.



I ran Syntec in my old Mini as it was the factory oil. Ran it in my old VW too. Haven't ran it since then. They changed the formula in the early 2000's and people were getting back unfavorable UOAs. Not sure if they changed it again.
 

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Rotella T6 would probably work fine in the FoST. I'd be hesitant to run it in the FiST because of the oil weight difference. T6 only comes in 5w40. And its non API, so you will get worse MPG. But the 40W when hot means your oil is thicker at operating temperature and may have issues getting where it needs to go and lubricating properly.



I ran Syntec in my old Mini as it was the factory oil. Ran it in my old VW too. Haven't ran it since then. They changed the formula in the early 2000's and people were getting back unfavorable UOAs. Not sure if they changed it again.
Damn I didn't even think about the weight difference. I loved running that stuff on my MS6 because of the detergents in it, kept the carbon build up on the intake valves thats associated with DI engines to a minimum.
 

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I'll be running Rotella. That's what everyone in the mazdaspeed world runs, never had any problems with my ms6
Rotella is great stuff, I run it in my racing bikes.

Really I worry more about the filter than oil. Oil is oil for the most part, they are all going to lube just fine, it is keeping it clean that I worry about, especially since I do more city driving than highway, so a lot of start and stopping.

For filters I always use Purolator. Bike and car.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oil is oil for the most part, they are all going to lube just fine, it is keeping it clean that I worry about, especially since I do more city driving than highway, so a lot of start and stopping.
I disagree, and there are thousands of UOAs out there to disprove your stance Especially in a turbo car where the oil also cools the turbo. The oil is equally important to the filter if not more so. And running the correct viscosity to make sure your oil flows to the places it needs to be and protects your engine is equally important. If you were running a low stress naturally aspirated fleet vehicle, then yes oil is oil. But in a high performance turbo engine, where extremely high temps and oil shear come into play....no way.

The best illustrator of this, is to take a non-syn Dino oil and put it into your car next oil change. Run it for 5,000 miles. Take a sample and send it to Blackstone, observe the color and how much is lossed by measuring what comes out of the pan (pour it in jugs). Then the next change, run something Synthetic like the Motorcraft and repeat the process. The two analysis will be night and day, the syn oil will have loss less between changes, color will be lighter, and degredation far less.
 
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