yeah, sounds like one of those horrible "Cannot reproduce problem" situations... Sounds like of like a physical electrical issue... I know in the Mustang there was kind of big fuse/link that could come loose and would things to go pretty haywire... Hope you get to the bottom of it ASAP!

 

Electronics can do some very screwy things if the input voltage is not steady and/or fluctuates out of spec. Perhaps it was a one-time thing, but if it continues, you may consider checking the output from the alternator and/or battery.

By the way...how did you know those systems went out? Was it indicated on the dash?

 

I know what the power steering feels like with out it.. But besides that the dash indicators told me the other systems did not work.

 

Sounds like you lost a wheel speed sensor ... not that I know what I am talking about. I bet blackbird will chime in with the right diagnosis.

 

Have you checked your fuses? Might have a loose one. If not I'd check the power wire voltage at the PCM. check the connections too. Sounds like you have a faulty module or a loose wire.

 

Did you end up throwing any codes? I would grab a scan tool and check anyway, there may be something stored even if the MIL isn't illuminated.

Also, I'm going to lean away from a speed sensor since the EPS should still work if the car isn't moving (since it works parked).

 

Have you checked your fuses? Might have a loose one. If not I'd check the power wire voltage at the PCM. check the connections too. Sounds like you have a faulty module or a loose wire.

I would, but I've already made the decision to let the dealer check it out. It certainly could be one of those things. It almost seems like a loose connection. The dealer was doing a reprogram on the car. Maybe its their doing...It only happens after I got the car back from them, and I changed my wheels to the stockers.

Did you end up throwing any codes?

No codes. The car is being left at the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics. It did it again while driving home today, all those systems just turned off. I was diving about 35 in 5th gear and it came on. Its screwy, the car went back to normal after slowing down for a turn. Then messed up again. Then about 2 feet before the dealers lot, it fixed itself...so I couldn't show them. Hence leaving it with them tomorrow.

 

I had rhis kind of issue with my older f 150 when the alternator was bad.

But im confused about a few things:

Why did you have to have airbags reprogrammed?

And how did you get the winter tires to work without pressure sensors ... I thought this was mandatory on this vehicle? Fyi ... I had the tpms put on at tirerackand the dealer had no problem reprogramming them with new wheels/tires. I plan to switch back to my factory set on a few weeks so will post how that goes.

 

I had rhis kind of issue with my older f 150 when the alternator was bad.

But im confused about a few things:

Why did you have to have airbags reprogrammed?
TSB...apparently

And how did you get the winter tires to work without pressure sensors ... I thought this was mandatory on this vehicle?
​ Mandatory if placed on the car by a automotive shop. The sensors tripped off every 30 miles.

Fyi ... I had the tpms put on at tirerack and the dealer had no problem reprogramming them with new wheels/tires. I plan to switch back to my factory set on a few weeks so will post how that goes.

Discount tire had a hard time apparently. I waited an hour to get my wheels put on my car. That is a lot of time for just mounting wheels on a car. I found out they hard a hard time with the sensors. But I don't have a clue why they were resetting them, I never messed with them when I took them off the car with the stock wheels.

 

I see so if you dont put sensors in the alarm keeps trippin off ... That sucks.

I dont think the reprogramming should be hard at all. Tirerack sold me a tool so you can do it yourself but service at dealer apparently used their own tool ro reprogram and had no issues. If the tires arent put back on in right location then they would have to be reprogrammed. So ecen when you rotate your stock tires it has to be reprogrammed so the computer can tell you which tire is low. This is how it was explained to me anyway.

 

Your second statement is not true. The TPMS system ford uses does not differentiate which tire is low, just that one of your tires is low. It has no way of knowing tire position. Systems equipped on other brands have this capability, but Ford does not currently. When you rotate tires, you don't need to re-program.

Chad, your problems are consistent with a low system voltage. If they can't figure it out today, set up a multimeter to look at your system voltage while driving, see what it reads next time you have the event.

 

I can do that. My scan gauge can read that for me. It was doing it just now, I turned the car on and off 5 times and it would not clear. I'll look at it this afternoon. It would not power off either with a quick touch like usual, you have to hold it for 2-3 seconds, then it powers off, and the engine does not sound right when it does power off.

Chad

 

Voltage Read 14.8-14.9 the entire trip. The problem did occur while driving home.

 

What did the dealer say? "Can not duplicate concern"?

 

The dealer and I agreed this morning that I need to bring it to them with the problem so they can see/feel it. When it warms up I'll leave it with them as well. There was a inch of snow this morning, so I did not want to leave it with them. I am looking at the Service Manual through motor craft.

SSM 22535 - 2012-2013 FOCUS AND FOCUS ST FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR PIGTAIL SERVICE KIT AVAILABILITY
A NEW PIGTAIL WIRING KIT INCLUDING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS IS NOW AVAILABLE FOR 2012-2013 FOCUS AND FOCUS ST VEHICLES WHERE DIAGNOSIS LEADS TO REPLACEMENT OF THE FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR AND/OR HARNESS. THE SERVICE PART NUMBER IS CV6Z-2C204-C. THE PARTS CATALOG IS BEING UPDATED TO SHOW AVAILABILITY OF THIS KI

That is the only thing I see that might make sense.

Today driving home, had I all of the problems, and I went over a bump, and it all went a way.. Maybe something loose/faulty.. Who knows.

 

Got a Theme:

Hill start assist status

ABS module

Input used to provide the hill start assist message display

Vehicle speed

ABS module

Vehicle speed data used for speedometer indication.

Wheel speed data

ABS

Used to validate the steering wheel component angle by comparing the rotational speeds of each wheel. The difference in the speed of each wheel is used to derive a steering angle for comparison against the absolute steering angle message from the SASM.

ABS warning indicator request

ABS module

Input used to control the ABS warning indicator.

Stability/traction control indication

ABS module

Input used to control the stability/traction control indicator (sliding car icon).

Power mode

BCM

Used to confirm the ignition status of the vehicle.

The EPAS enters a manual steering mode (no electrical steering assistance is provided) when a concern that is considered to be a critical safety concern is detected. In manual steering mode, the vehicle has mechanical steering operation only, which gives steering operation a heavy feel.

See a theme? ABS Module.

 

When something goes wrong with the ABS module in a Ford a lot of things stop working. EPS even uses ABS for straight ahead plausibility.

 

Knew the ABS was used for TC/stability and of course ABS... possibly the Hill start... but did think it would be used for Speed...

sounds like you are onto so something.

 

best $20 bucks I spent this month!


The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module Does Not Respond To The Scan Tool
Diagnostic Overview
Diagnostics in this manual assume a certain skill level and knowledge of Ford-specific diagnostic practices.
REFER to: Diagnostic Methods (100-00 General Information, Description and Operation).


Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 14 for schematic and connector information.


Refer to Wiring Diagrams Cell 42 for schematic and connector information.

Normal Operation and Fault Conditions
The ABS module communicates with the scan tool through the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN).
Possible Sources

• Fuse
• Wiring, terminals and connectors
• ABS module

Visual Inspection and Diagnostic Pre-checks
Verify BJB fuses 7 (40A), 8 (30A) and 19 (5A) are OK.

F7 = 40amp ABS/ Electronic Stability program pump
F8 = 30amp Electronic Stablity program valve
F19 = 5amp ABS/ Electronic Stability program pump feed 15

From here, the dealer can use their tool to test voltage interruptions/problems.

 

It just gets better and better.. So the module the dealer was "updating" [The RCM] is connected through the ABS module...

See here:

 

Fascinating ... So you are thinking the update they performed messed something up?

Still dont know why they had to do that to beigin with? Was it a recall notice? I have not received anything from ford about this? And what was the problem that it required an update to begin with?

 

Fascinating ... So you are thinking the update they performed messed something up?

Still don't know why they had to do that to begin with? Was it a recall notice? I have not received anything from ford about this? And what was the problem that it required an update to begin with?

No idea JT... I don't see a TSB or recall for that in the service manual online. Possibly my version is not as up-to-date as the dealers. All I know is they told me there was a reprogram to the air bag module. I am taking it back tomorrow morning, and explaining my findings.

Doing their job for them...so I can get this problem fixed.

 

Dealers says: Corroded Speed Sensor was throwing all those codes with the BCM & ABS modules. So interesting a sensor would do that to the entire car.

 

A lot of the fancy control schemes in machines/vehicles now are dependent upon highly leveraged sensors to drive down cost. For example, instead of installing a 12$ temp sensor in order to protect some of our systems, we leverage an upstream temp sensor, an upstream pressure sensor, and two mathematical models to make a "virtual" temp sensor. The mantra in the business is: "Software is free!". If you could see our control model trees, there are 3 or 4 sensors which "touch" virtually every engine system we have.

 

Glad they found the problem but corroded? Unless you've been driving through acid that seems pretty odd on a car this new, IMO.

 

salt + water will do terrible terrible things to most automotive connectors if they breach the seal. Something as simple as incorrectly locking the connector during assembly or somebody not installing the seal properly during harness manufacturing can cause seal failures. The seals on automotive style connectors are especially bad because they are installed before crimping on the blade style socket/pin. It's a non-trivial process.

 

Wait .... so does that mean my uninformed half assed guess was correct? I should get a prize.

 

Well ... Just one more reason i love this forum ... Learn something every day. I knew this car was software dependent but never would have imagined to this degree. Wow kinda scary..

Glad its solved Chad.

 

Welp..update.

Sure as shit, the :xxx: speed sensor was the problem. I have not had the freak outs come back since I got it back from the dealer yesterday.

Hope this thread helps others.

 

Glad its fixed chad. Thanks for the update.

 

And now everyone knows what it is if these set of symptoms pop up. You probably saved some old dude like me from a future heart attack!

 

Thanks for all the posts guys. Its still fixed. Day 4